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Custom-Made Crown Molding

Custom-Made Crown Molding

By John English


Here’s how to make the crown molding for the pantry. It’s all done on the tablesaw. The biggest challenge is figuring out which cut to make when.


1. Make a cove (Cut 1, see lead photo) by running 24-in. or longer boards at 30 degrees to the blade. Guide the board in a jig and apply holddown pressure with a pair of skateboard wheels. Start with a very shallow cut, then raise the blade in 1/16-in. increments until you’ve formed the full cove.

Click any image to view a larger version.


2. Tilt the blade 30 degrees for Cut 2. A handscrew prevents the molding from tipping. Use a zero-clearance insert plate if your plate doesn’t provide adequate support.


3. Keeping the blade at 30 degrees, make Cut 3. The space between the blade and fence is very small. Cut a kerf through a piece of plywood to support the molding stock.


4. For Cut 4, leave the blade at 30 degrees. There should be enough room on your insert plate to support the molding this time.


5. With the blade still tilted at 30 degrees, make Cut 5.


6. Sand the molding with a large block. A can of beets (how fitting for a pantry!) is exactly the right size: just a little bit smaller in diameter than the cove.




This story originally appeared in American Woodworker November 2007, issue #132.

November 2007, issue #132

Purchase this back issue.

 

 

Fireplace Bookshelves with Wood Storage

This is the same client (friends, actually) for whom we constructed an exterior door  (see oldest post here- ‘A Castle’s Exterior Door’… at the bottom of the page).
Anyway, this stone house was built over 75 years ago and we believed the old tongue and groove pine was original. Nice old wood but it made the living room a bit gloomy and she wanted to brighten and ‘clean up’ the look. They wanted to keep the stone fireplace and redo everything else.

We designed low shelving for that wall, the wall to it’s left and included a place for cord wood ‘waiting it’s turn’ to heat the house. It was a bit pricey so we eliminated the shelves returning on the left wall and… got to work.

The paneling was removed to expose the studs, the walls sheet-rocked, the stonework re-chinked, floors sanded / urethaned and the walls painted before installing the bookshelves.

We installed all the finish woodwork including some wider molding for the windows (more ‘old-world’ look to work with the stone). All painted white for a nice contrast. I fabricated some thick, oak, quarter round molding for the hearth’s edge as it sat 2″ above the floorRather than build the whole cabinet deeper, I elected to simply extend the floor of the cord wood opening. We protected it’s interior by lining it (floor, walls, ceiling and back) with sheet metal. I’m interested to see how this will stand the test of time.

I usually like the look of very old wood but it’s not quite so special when everywhere you look, you see nothing but walls of dark wood. I think this room is vastly improved… as our friends, all along, believed it would be.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.

 

 

 

Historic Kitchen

Here is a kitchen we built for, what was an old school house (1860).

This above photo displays the strong, simple detailing we incorporated. We  increased the width of the frames for the doors, drawer faces and side walls which leaves a slightly smaller panel in each of their centers.

There is no molding profile on the inside edges of any of the frames. The fact that every face (surface) on the cabinets are frame and panel is enough decoration by itself.

The ‘fireslate’ counter tops were left square on their outside edge. These are the counter tops we all had in our high school science labs.

The wall cabinets possess the same detail with the addition of hand-made support brackets (corbels) and the cabinet’s top edges are finished with two, staggered square trim pieces (to act as a crown).

On an opposite wall we included a small unit for cookbooks.

 

 

 

 

 

The island’s counter top we made from rock-maple planks ( looks so much better than commercial butcher block). A refuse bag sits beneath this opening cut into the surface. We used over-sized legs (6″ X 6″) to support the counter’s cantilevered (over-hung) edge which creates an area to sit along one side of the island.

The Old School House has just received Historic Landmark Status. I’m pleased we were asked to maintain it’s authentic character… and I love the way it turned out.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.

 

 

 

 

Deadhead Sinker Cypress Roundup

Deadhead sinker cypress is wood that sank to the bottom of rivers and canals 150 years ago.  It has been raised, dried out, and sliced into boards, molding, and anything else wooden you can think of.  To feature this great wood, Good Millwork presents a roundup of five articles on it:

The history of deadhead sinker cypress

What makes cypress rot resistant?

Why sinker cypress is better than the cypress cut now

Deadhead sinker cypress is green

Deadhead pecky cypress

These articles paint a picture of a wood that is good for just about anything.    Give us a call to discuss your anything today.

Have Questions? Contact us or call (888) 209-9307

 

 

 

 

 

English Manor Kitchen

Completed this kitchen in the fall of 2010. Though the term ‘Edwardian’ seems to conjure visions of butler’s pantries in stately English estates, the photos speak for themselves…

Island made for seating (shown w/o stools)

varying cabinet depths with side panels / all hand-made

Understated Stove Hood

modern appliance within old world cabinetry

extended 'farm sink' / articulated base molding

pull-out baskets / function and 'country' look

If you’ve enjoyed this post, please leave a comment…

To go to our gallery, click ‘back to Hudson Cabinetmaking’ in the upper right section of this page.

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc. / 3/11