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Exploit the Weakness of the Tree

Exploit the Weakness of the Tree

In hand-tool woodworking, brains almost always trump brawn. For example, when I need to remove a lot of material from a localized area, I need to think like a tree assassin and exploit its weaknesses. Think about it for a minute: Trees are much stronger in the vertical axis than they are in the horizontal. Continue reading»
 

The Lazy Man’s Drawboring Delight

The Lazy Man’s Drawboring Delight

I’ve drawbored hundreds and hundreds of joints since 1999, mostly on workbenches I’ve built for myself or with students. That doesn’t mean I know jack buddy about drawboring, as last weekend proves. I was in Oak Park, a suburb of Chicago, for a Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event and staying with a friend. Let’s call him Continue reading»
 

Turning Wood: Socket Chisel Handles

Turning Wood: Socket Chisel Handles

Here’s a 1-2-3 system for getting a perfect fit.

By Tim Heil


High-quality socket chisels— such as the Stanley Sweathearts and Lie- Nielsens—are making a big comeback. Why would these companies choose the socket style? Well, it’s all about you, the user. If you’re not satisfi ed with a handle’s shape, you can change it. If you want a diff erent wood—no problem. Th e handle of a socket chisel isn’t glued or fastened to the tool, so you just remove it and make your own.

Truth is, woodworkers have been doing this for years. In the age before plastics, when a wood handle on a socket chisel split or mushroomed, replacing it was easy. But not all were fixed. Today, there are loads of wonderful old socket chisels going for a song, merely because they have busted or missing handles.

I’m a turner with a thing about handles— I just love making them. Screwdrivers, awls, ice cream scoops: If it’s got a handle, I’ve got to make my own.

When I first turned handles for socket chisels, I would make a few crude measurements of the socket and just go at it. If the taper on the handle’s shank wasn’t quite right, I guessed where it was off and tried again. While this method works OK, I’ve since found a measuring system that’s much more reliable. Following these steps, your shank should fit tight right away.

First, turn a cylinder that’s an inch or two longer than the length of the handle you’re going to make (of course, the full length includes the shank). Th e narrow end of the shank will most likely be a small diameter (anywhere from 1/4" to 3/8"), so I prefer using a cone-shaped revolving center in the lathe’s tailstock. Th is gives me more room to maneuver the parting tool when cutting the shank’s taper.

 

Measure the socket

Start by wrapping a small piece of notebook paper around a pencil, forming a cylinder (Photo 1). Push the cylinder all the way down into the chisel’s socket (Photo 2) and let the paper unroll into a cone. (You may have to help it a little bit.) Once the paper has fully conformed to the socket’s taper, put a couple of pieces of tape on the paper, to hold its shape. Th en draw a line on the cone, following the top of the chisel’s socket (Photo 3). Remove the cone—you’re all set to take three measurements.

First, set a divider to the distance between the pencil mark you made and the end of the cone (Photo 4). Transfer that distance to the handle blank (Photo 5). Second, set a caliper to the diameter of the cone at the pencil mark (Photo 6). Turn the blank to this diameter, immediately to the right of the mark indicating the shank’s length (Photo 7). (I fi nd it easier to do this if I start roughing out the shank at the same time.) Th ird, reset the caliper to the diameter of the cone’s end (Photo 8). Turn the end of the shank to this diameter (Photo 9), then form a straight taper up to the end of the shank.

 

Test the fit

If all has gone well, the shank should perfectly fi t the socket. Just to be sure, perform a simple test. Rub a piece of chalk on the inside of the socket (Photo 10). Turn off the lathe, pull away the headstock and push the socket onto the shank. Twist the chisel a few times and remove it (Photo 11). If the fi t is correct, most of the shank will be coated with chalk; if it’s not, the chalk will show you the high spots that need to be removed. If the fi t is too loose, your best bet is to cut off part of the shank and start over from the beginning. Don’t worry—the turning goes pretty quick.

Once the fi t is OK, lengthen the shank by about 1/8" (Photo 12). (Notice the small gap between the end of the socket and the end of the shank on the handles shown on page 30.) Th is gap allows you to drive the shank tight into the socket. Th e end of the handle shouldn’t butt up against the top of the socket. If it does, the handle could split when you strike the chisel.

Turn the handle to any shape you wish (Photo 13). Th ere’s really no right or wrong here; traditionally, chisel handles came in many diff erent shapes and sizes. If your work requires you to strike the chisel hard, you may want to put a ferrule on one or both ends of the handle to prevent it from splitting. Turn off the lathe from time to time and test how the handle feels. When you’re done, part off (Photo 14). To install your handle, just drive it into the socket with a mallet. With a tight fi t, there’s no need for glue. When you apply fi nish to the handle, don’t put any on the shank. If the shank is too slippery, it won’t stay seated in the socket.


This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February/March 2012, issue #158.

Click any image to view a larger version.

1. Chisel sockets come in many different sizes, so you’ll need to take some measurements before turning the handle. Start by cutting a piece of notebook paper about 4” square. Roll it up around a pencil.


2. Push the paper cylinder all the way into the chisel’s socket. Let go of the paper—it will unroll to form a cone. The cone will be exactly the same shape as the socket.


3. Stick one or two pieces of tape on the cone to hold its shape. Mark the cone at the end of the socket. Remove the cone from the chisel.


4. Set a divider to the distance between the pencil mark and the end of the cone.


5. Mark this distance from the tailstock end of a blank you’ve roughed out.


6. Set a caliper to fit the cone at the mark you drew at the end of the chisel’s socket. This will be the major diameter of the handle’s shank (the part that fits into the socket).


7. Turn the blank to the major diameter, just to the right of the pencil line. Rough out the rest of the shank’s taper.


8. Reset the caliper to fit the end of the cone. This will be the shank’s minor diameter.


9. Turn the end of the shank to the minor diameter, leaning the parting tool at about the same angle as the rough taper. Cut a straight taper between the major and minor diameters.


10. Check the fit of the shank in the chisel’s socket. First, coat the inside of the socket with chalk dust. Then turn off the lathe and pull away the tailstock.


11. Push the socket onto the shank and twist it a few times. If its taper is correct, the full length of the shank will be coated with chalk. If it’s not correct, only the high spots will be coated.


12. Once the taper is correct, lengthen the shank about 1/8" to the left.


13. Shape the rest of the handle as you wish. Stop the lathe and remove the handle from time to time to test how it feels.


14. Part the handle from the blank using a spindle gouge. (My gouge is very short, from turning so many handles!)


 

Cut Rabbets by Hand

Cut Rabbets by Hand

Even if I have an entire shop filled with power equipment, I like to cut my rabbets by hand. Why? It’s fast and fun. Once you master a rabbet plane or a moving fillister plane, your router table and table saw will get a lot less use. To push you along this path, I wrote Continue reading»
 

Cut Rabbets by Hand

Cut Rabbets by Hand

Even if I have an entire shop filled with power equipment, I like to cut my rabbets by hand. Why? It’s fast and fun. Once you master a rabbet plane or a moving fillister plane, your router table and table saw will get a lot less use. To push you along this path, I wrote Continue reading»
 

Extremely Fine Woodworking

At the Metropolitan Museum of Art (NYC), they have a display, (a small room, actually / maybe 10′x10′?) inside of which are the reconstructed walls and ceiling treatments of a highly-figured room that must originally have come from a palace, castle, royal estate, whatever… (15th, 16th century?)
As you can see I’m guessing here… because I have these photos I took when I was there but I can’t recall the description written on the placard sitting adjacent to the ‘rooms’ entrance. (I’ll get this info when I re-visit and edit the post.)
Anyway…
I wanted you to see (what must have been) a monstrous amount of work AND a great deal of time from planning through finish.
I can’t imagine what it was like to dedicate yourself to such a project nor how satisfying it must have been when it came together.
The pictures speak for themselves…

corner where walls meet ceiling

ceiling's center

At the time this was made, there were no power tools… so you can only imagine the sheer volume of hand carving involved.

Dedication / love of craft / a pleasure to see…

Russell Hudson / 4/12

 

St. Peter’s Cross and the Ultimate Leg Vise

St. Peter’s Cross and the Ultimate Leg Vise

If a leg vise has a disadvantage – and I’m not quite willing to admit that it does – it would be its parallel guide. The parallel guide is a strip of wood at the bottom of the leg vise that prevents the vise’s chop from spinning like a propeller. It also creates the vise’s Continue reading»
 

Correct the Skew on a Plane Blade or Chisel

Correct the Skew on a Plane Blade or Chisel

Some woodworkers would rather stick their hand into a running disposal while naked than turn on a dry grinder. So when they need to correct the skew angle on a skewed plane iron or skewed chisel they are at a loss. I even met a guy who would just buy a new blade rather than Continue reading»
 

Tune up a Hand Drill in 30 Minutes

Tune up a Hand Drill in 30 Minutes

Vintage hand drills – sometimes called “eggbeater drills” – are common, useful and easy to fix up using stuff you already own. You can buy hand drills all day long on eBay and never deplete the world’s supply because they were in every homeowner’s toolbox. When I buy a hand drill, I don’t pay much Continue reading»
 

Repair a Shattered Sharpening Stone

Repair a Shattered Sharpening Stone

A couple weekends ago I did a clumsy thing in front of an audience: I dropped my expensive 5,000-grit waterstone on the floor where it broke into three jagged chunks. Someone in the audience offered to sell me a replacement stone, but I declined. That’s because I knew I had two good things I could Continue reading»
 

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